Monday, November 28, 2011

The Sacred Valley (Ollantaytambo)

Approximately one hour after leaving Chinchero, Marcelo and I arrived at Ollantaytambo where, geek that I am, I couldn't help but wonder if Peter Jackson had stolen his inspiration for Helm's Deep. (For those of you who don't get the reference, don't ask. See aforementioned geekery.)



Whereas Chinchero was a quaint, idyllic village of rolling pastures layered with Incan terraces, Ollantaytambo seemed to me an intimidating fortress carved right out of the rock face of a dreary mountainside. The effect, I must say, was powerful and intimidating.











As Marcelo and I made our way further down along the mountain, we found a few charming thatched roof houses, standing in stark contrast to the harsh ferocity of the rest of the ruins.





In the valley, but separate from the modern town, the remains of the village of the lower class Incas stood with similar grace and permanence, the fountains and waterways of the town still fully functional.








Unfortunately, we had forgotten to leave time to eat lunch between Chinchero and Ollantaytambo, so by the time we exited the latter, I was famished and getting a bit grumpy. We stopped in a cute little restaurant on the way to the train station and had some Trucha al Plancha (grilled trout with rice and potatoes) and avocado with vinegar. Very tasty. Then it was on to the train to Aguas Calientes, otherwise known as Machu Picchu township, where we were in bed by 10pm in preparation for our 4am wake-up call for Machu Picchu.



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Location:Meson De La Estrella,Cuzco,Peru

The Sacred Valley (Chinchero)

Marcelo and I started off early on Tuesday, taking yet another surprisingly nice bus from yet another bizarrely dirty bus station in an otherwise decent Cuzcan neighborhood, this time destined for the typical Andean village of Chinchero, the former resort of Incan ruler Tupac Yupanqui.





The contemporary town sits just above an angled set of Incan farming terrazas.



The modern flora and fauna of Chinchero have made the terraces their own...


...including this adorable litter of piglets...


...who scampered back up them upon noticing me.


Unlike at Pisac, where the terraces were set into a mountain, those at Chinchero only range over a space of maybe 100 feet high, but they blend beautifully into the picturesque valley below.





Amongst them, the Incans carved throne-like seats into several large rock formations. And they're surprisingly comfy!





The Andean farming community surrounding Chinchero actively use some of the terrazas for their crops...


...and as extensions of their fields, lying just below.








And their livestock roams freely across the landscape...





... which was so lovely as to evoke scenes from fairytales...





... and for some reason reminded me of The Princess Bride. ;)





Eventually, Marcelo and I made our way back up to the village, where the church stands upon the remaining Inca walls...


... and the Andes loom in the background, including the imposing peak of Salkantay.





Along the streets, Andean women proffer their wares...


...and nearly every other building houses a traditional Andean looming shop.





After one last amble through the village, we hopped a bus to continue through the Sacred Valley to Ollantaytambo.

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Location:Meson De La Estrella,Cuzco,Peru

The Sacred Valley (Pisac)

Monday morning began with free breakfast at the Pariwana bar and a trip to the Cuzco Tourist Information Office to buy entrance tickets for Marcelo and myself to Machu Picchu. Both of us had decided not to do the trek-- my reasons being health-related-- and to simply take the train, the choice of which led to a rather Chaplinesque sequence of the two of us running back and forth between the InkaRail and PeruRail ticketing offices trying to determine what trains to take.

When we had finally made our selection and purchased our tickets, we headed further out into Cuzco to catch a bus to Pisac, one of the Sacred Valley Inca Ruin sites. The bus cost a whopping 2.50 soles, equivalent to approximately 75 cents, U.S.. And as an added bonus, I had my first experience with a truly sketchy third world bathroom. Not quite a squatter, but just a bowl in a shack with no sink and no paper and a little old man with no teeth who demands fifty pesetas to let you in and to pour a bucket of water in to force the flushing mechanism when you're done. Awesome.

After a bumpy hour-long ride past many of the local Cuzco sites like Q'enqo, we arrived in Pisac, a small town below a set of Incan ruins of the same name.



We wandered into town and found a tiny local restaurant where we got a three-course lunch for 3 soles ($1). Marcelo then entered into an epic haggling match with the local taxi drivers to determine who would take us up to the entrance of the ruins. I have done well with this sort of haggling, but nothing compares to the artistry of a native South American, and Marcelo has led me to conclude that Chileans may be the finest at it. Halfway up, the taxi driver tried to change the price, but Marcelo wasn't having it. And damn if within the next minute, we weren't being driven past the main remaining Incan terrazas for the originally determined price.


After being dropped off, we embarked on the trail through the ruins at the top of the first set of terraces.






The path took us across and around the mountain, through and past Incan buildings and guard walls.


To get from one side to the other, we had to pass through a low-ceilinged cave, reminding me of how much the average height of the population has changed in 500 years.



Upon emerging, we were greeted with yet more spectacular views of the terrazas we had just crossed, of the valley, of the agricultural ruins below, and of the opposing mountain, in the side of which are many former Incan burial sites.












The sun shone with such brilliance that Marcelo said we had a view of the valley, the mountain, and god.



Eventually, we came to the next full set of ruins.







Unfortunately, it was at this point that I realized that I had lost my cell phone somehow. While I scampered about looking for it, Marcelo tried to take a nap on a 500 year-old bench.


My search proved futile, so we moved on, hiring a local tour guide named Miguelangelo to explain the rest of the site.



After quite an interesting tour entirely in Spanish and about 80% of which I understood, we chose, rather than to go back to the entrance and catch a taxi, to walk down the mountain past the rest of the ruins.








With barely any daylight left, we descended upon Pisac and wandered through the famous market before catching a bus back to Cuzco. There I snapped one final photo of the day of the brilliantly illuminated Qoricancha.



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Location:Meson De La Estrella,Cuzco,Peru